Printing of jute fabric with natural dyes extracted from manjistha, annatto and ratanjot

Chattopadhyay, S N; Pan, N C; Khan, A

Abstract

Grey jute fabric has been treated with cellulase / zylanase enzyme combination (4% owf) in presence of non ionicdetergent and mild alkali, bleached by ecofriendly oxidising bleaching agent, double mordanted and then printed withnatural dyes extracted from manjistha, annatto and ratanjot. Bioscouring and bleaching make the fabric white (whitenessIndex 82.44 in HUNTER scale) and soft (flexural rigidity 623-686 mg.cm), which are very much essential for good printingeffect. The fabrics are double mordanted with myrobolan (biomordant) extract and potash alum (chemical mordant). Naturaldyes are extracted from seeds of annatto, roots of manjistha and bark of ratanjot by aqueous extraction method. The particlesize of the dyes is found in the range of 400-900nm. Mordanted jute fabrics are printed by screen printing method usingdifferent mesh sizes (20,40,60). Guar gum is used as thickener and urea as hygroscopic agent. After printing, steaming isdone for 30 min at 1000C followed by soaping and washing. The findings reveal that the printed jute fabric with very goodwash and rub fastness can be produced from natural dyes and natural thickener (guar gum) by substantive screen printingmethod, and these can be used as decorative, furnishing and apparel textiles.


Keyword(s)

Annatto;Bioscouring;Bleaching;Jute fabric;Manjistha;Mordants;Natural dyes;Printing;Ratanjot

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